BB-IIIC-C19

This is an idea that I've been developing. Taking the new Boosted Bertha and turning it into a 3 stage rocket. I would need two kits to do this and modifications to the plans would be required for the second (middle) stage to make it work properly. Nothing beyond what this engineer can handle. With 2 kits I could buy a coupler and use both Body Tubes to lengthen the rocket. I am also considering replacing the Nose Cone as I have never really liked the rounded shape of the original.

CHEROKEE-E Build Part 2

How many weeks later...and I finally finished. I have a tendency to lean towards darker colors and I made a conscious effort to make this rocket brighter and have a lighter more sporty fun feel.

As always I applied a priming layer of white and let it sit for a day.

While the white dried I made stencils for the fin color scheme based on my sketches. I retained the balsawood and traced it on paper to layout the color blocking then used a wall of a tissue box to create the shapes.

 

Using colored Sharpies I traced the lines onto the model. The paint coated the Sharpies so I had to keep scribbling on the corrugate (as you can see) to free them up. Think next time I may try colored pencil.

Filling in the specific areas on the fins and body tube.

I decided to move the Magenta ring down from just below to Nosecone. Placing it with the Magenta on the fins nicely continues the color across the Body Tube. I'm glad I did as I like the Magenta, White and Green blocking at the lower end of the rocket.

The finished model...

 

CHEROKEE-E Build Part 1

So I decided to keep the Cherokee-E kit. Took advantage of the long weekend and decided on this kit of the 4 I have waiting to be built. For me assembly is a long process that usually will take at least a couple weeks. I'm pretty patient when it comes to allowing the glue to cure and paints to dry. With work and interruptions within the family drawing my focus away a kit can easily sit idle M-Th.

In the past I relied on LocTite Super Glue for certain parts (ie Fins to Body Tube). After reading a few blogs and watching the Apogee Components YouTube channel I decided to give Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue a go. I'm very happy that I did. It appears to have a very strong hold and did have a longer work time to ensure the Fins were perfectly aligned.

Since this is a D or E powered rocket I decided to add a little weight to the nose cone. I needed to open the hole a little. I used sandpaper to smooth out my expansion and to cleaned up all the flash around the Nose Cone loop.

One trick that I do for Nose Cone weight is to form the clay (Sculpey in this case) into a snake and apply some super glue to the end. As I lower it into through the opening I wiggle it to some of the super glue is applied towards the tip and then pack the clay down in. The intention is to secure the clay in place.

I used the double glue method discussed in the Attaching Fins Apogee Components YouTube video. And it worked really well. The work time was nice as it allowed me the freedom to move the Fins and Launch Lugs to ensure correct placement. The dried glue is it a bit darker than Elmer's but with a primer of white then color it should be a non issue.


Another trick I have is to use a pencil to double check the straightness of the Launch Lug to my guideline.

I usually place a little super glue to secure the Engine Hook to the tube at the location where the clip goes through the Engine Mount Tube.

 



 

Engine Mount...

 

 

 

Checking fillet shape and gaps between the Fins and Body Tube.

 

Next steps will be gluing Engine Mount to the bottom Tube, then paining. I think I am going to paint the separate Body Tubes prior to Gluing. And I am thinking at this moment of White, Green and Pink.